Joey Healy is a professional makeup artist for all mediums. He recently did a layout for a popular young women's fashion magazine, created stunning looks for his many cutting-edge clients and had the chance to work with some amazing models. But that isn't his favorite thing. Some people fixate on doing great hair. Others are know for their perfect smokey eye. Joey's specialty? Brow shaping.
Joey believes that everyone's eyes can be enhanced by finding the perfect brow shape and look. The right hair here or there can help play up your bone structure, make your eyes pop or camouflage problems like wide- or close-set eyes. But going one step further, Joey spends time with each client showing them how to achieve the perfect brow. Your brows shouldn't look fake, overdone or harsh. Filling in with the right pencil or powder (or both!) can make the difference between looking polished or dull. I know it's hard to believe that a few hairs and the right product can make such a difference, but they do! Even if you don't have much to work with (I definitely don't), there is no denying brows shape your face.
I had a few moments to chat with Joey and wax poetic about his brow philosophy.
Me: What is your preferred method of brow shaping?
JH: I don't wax. Nothing is wrong with waxing- it's fast, it's clean, it's easy. But it isn't as precise as I like to be. While it's a little better, I don't like threading either. I know people may not always believe me, but the devil is in the details and each hair is important in how I shape the brows. I like to tweeze. There is less, if any at all, down time. You don't have to worry about medications reacting with hair removal.
Me: Even on people like me, who have more peach fuzz than brow?
JH: Especially on people like you. The peach fuzz can help set up the structure of the brow, so you may not always want to get rid of all of it. It depends on the person. But yes, I have ways of dealing with peach fuzz, and it's almost always with tweezers.
Me: I love to experiment and try out the trends. But I'm not sure about brow trends. I worry when brows are thicker, I'll look fake and when they are thinner, my brows may not grow back. Should I be more adventurous?
JH: I think everyone has a shape that looks best on them. Experimenting is fun, but you have to be careful. Sometimes if you over-tweeze, the hair may not grow back. It's hard to achieve a very full brow or change your arch and still look natural. The goal at the end of the day is to look and feel beautiful. Trends are fun, but they don't work for everyone. What's the old adage? If it ain't broke? I encourage everyone to try the trends. Just be sure they can easily wash off when they don't work.
Me: Tell me a little about how your brow service is different from other estheticians.
JH: First off, I come to you. I go to homes, offices, or anywhere I'm needed. I spend more time than your typical esthetician - thirty minutes or more. I work with you to develop the right shape for your face and then remove the hair with tweezers, to give you the exact and perfect shape for your face. Finally, I show you how to make the most of your brows with pencils and powder. When I leave, you have the skills to get that professional look each day, until it is time for a brow shaping touch up.
Me: You mentioned powder and pencil. Do you actually use both on most people?
JH: I think you need to use both. The right pencil gives you the look of the actual hairs. The right powder fills it in and make the shape perfect. I think you usually need both to get the best look.
Me: What are your favorite products to use?
JH: I love so many things. Sadly, some of them are slightly hard to find, so I am always stocking up when I get the chance! I love Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil in "Seal Brown", unless you are a redhead, this is a very universal color. For a warmer brow pencil, I love Kevyn Aucoin Brow Pencil in "Brunette". For a soft powder fill (which can be used in conjunction with the above), Smashbox Brow Tech in Taupe is definitely one of my go-to products. It's universal and comes with a setting wax in the split pan. I also prefer to use a disposable spooli brush to shape brows, instead of a comb. The bristles help the brows fall into the right place.
Me: What about tweezers? I am sure you would prefer your clients not touch up their own brows, but sometimes, a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do. Do the type of tweezers really make a difference?
JH: Of course. The same way that a stylist prefers certain shears, I have my favorite tweezers. I prefer Shu Uemura & Tweezerman tweezers. And not that you should EVER do brow trimming yourself, but when I do it, I prefer to use Shu Umera brow trimming scissors for precision.
Me: What is the one thing you wish women knew about brows?
JH: That a well done brow will highlight your eyes, bring out your cheeks and frame your face. The devil is in the details and that is certainly very true for your brows.
Me: How can someone make an appointment with you to have their brows shaped?
JH: People can contact me through my website. I am available by appointment to meet with women in the NYC area. For a limited time, I would be happy to offer Gouldylox Readers a discount on my services. My normal brow shaping is $55. For Gouldylox readers, from now until the end of November, I will shape their brows and teach them how to make them look their best for $40*.
In the NYC area? Take Joey up on his offer to show you how to get your best brow possible. He is full of tips, advice and great stories! I wish I was in town, if for no other reason to than to get his advice in person on how to make the most of my scarce brows. If you get the opportunity to go, please let me know how it went and what tips you learned!
*First time clients only. NYC only. Outside of Manhattan, additional travel fees may be incurred.
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